June 28, 2011

June 28, 2011

Start: 888
End: 907

Today we woke up early in an attempt to get to Red's Meadow and then to Mammoth Lakes before the PO closes to pick up packages and then eat copious amounts of food, washed down with some ice cold beer.

The first part of the hiking went quickly up some exposed switchbacks. Unfortunately beyond that point the majority of the trail had some, or was completely covered with, snow. We still made decent time as we passed by Lake Virginia and Purple Lake, crossing a few small creeks. The creeks are interesting to cross. Sometimes you have to search a bit up and downstream to find a good place to cross. Sometimes there are snow bridges that are sturdy enough to cross, but still cause a little anxiousness due to the holes in the snow bridge up and downstream. Other times you walk across the snow and hear water running beneath you without seeing it at all.

We stopped for lunch at mile 900! It's amazing how much faster the last 100 miles went compared to the first 100. The last 7 miles were the slowest for us, primarily because the trail was covered in snow and we were hiking through trees making navigation difficult. Usually there are reliable footprints which can be followed, but it appears that we were the first ones to hike this section today. Fortunately Gangsta Rap has a GPS which made things go much quicker. The last 2 miles were better and we had mostly bare trail to follow through a burned area. I was very ready to be done hiking when we finally got to Red's Meadow. Glad for a couple zero days before hitting the trail again.

We joked all day about how bad the weather was compared to the previous 8 days. There were gusts of wind that must have been at least 10 mph, and then clouds started rolling in in the morning, which turned to a completely cloud covered sky by the end of the day. We heard later that the snow level is going to be 8000' tonight and tomorrow, with the chance of thunderstorms as well. Good thing we are in town, warm and dry!

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 27, 2011

Start: 879
End: 888

This morning we enjoyed a large breakfast before riding back on the boat to the other end of the lake where the trail was waiting for us. For breakfast I had two biscuits and gravy, an omelette with ham, cheese, peppers, and onions, with a side of hash browns and an English muffin. For dessert I had a piece of warm peach pie. What a great way to start the day!

We got back to the trail around 10am and started on our way up to Silver Pass. As we were hiking up after the forst Mono Creek crossing we saw an awesome looking waterfall coming down the opposite side of the valley. Little did we know that we would soon be crossing directly under such a waterfall. I'm not sure what it was supposed to look like during a "normal" summer, but the water on the trail was above my knees and about 20 yards long, not to mention the spray coming from the waterfall itself.

We hiked on a couple more miles and then took a lunch break before making the final push for Silver Pass. The pass was pretty easy to get to. It was a gradual climb on the snow up to a point where we could see Chief Lake and Warrior Lake, both of which were frozen over. The best part of the day was about to come though... Glissading!

We had three glissades on our way down. The third one was by far the best. It was another one of those blind glissades, but this one was even longer than the other. And it was fast and fun! 12 ounce lost her hat, but luckily there was another group just behind us and one of them was able to to reach out and grab the hat mid-glissade and then continue down to the bottom to return it; It was quite a grab.

After the glissading we hiked down another few miles to camp near Fish Creek along with the group from glissading earlier in the day. All in all the hikers include Timex, Gangsta Rap, 12 Ounce, Skinny D, Liz-a-bitch, Funyon, Meow-Meow, and myself.

Tomorrow we make it to Red's Meadow and hopefully a ride into Mammoth!

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 26, 2011

Start: 864
End: 879

Knowing that we had relatively few miles to do to get to VVR today, and we didn't need to be to where the ferry docks until 4:30pm allowed us to get a late start and take it easy during the day.

Early on, just before the Bear Creek crossing, we ran into Wiz, Buttercup, and Wet Smoke again as they were just packing up camp. A little while after the crossing I hiked with Wiz for 5 miles or so and we caught up on some of the adventures we had each had over the past 400 miles. Since they aren't going to VVR, we made a plan to meet up in Mammoth and possibly share a car rental from Mammoth to Quincy for the High Sierra Music Festival on June 30. I don't know exactly what it's going to be, but it sounded like a good time, so I figured I might as well check it out!

The excitement of the day really revolved around 12 Ounce today. She got a little behind everyone else and lost our footprints in the snow so she used her map and compass to chart her course to Lake Edison where we agreed we would meet. At one point during that section of hiking there are 53 switchbacks descending from a ridge to the elevation of the river in the valley below. Unfortunately for her, as she was descending her bear can, which was strapped to the top of her pack, came loose and bounced and rolled down the hill a couple hundred yards. Since the bear can had some of her gear in it on addition to food she had to go down and find it, which she did, only to find herself cliffed out from the switchbacks and in need of an alternate course to the lake. Long story short, she bushwhacked and downclimbed granite on her way down to the lake. She made it there before the rest of us, but due to her alternate direct route, unfortunately she was on the wrong side of the river which was feeding the lake. She ended up having to walk back around, bushwhack some more, and she did eventually make it to the correct side of the lake and in time for the ferry.

12 Ounce is the example of a prepared hiker who knows how to read a map and use a compass. There was another hiker however who had neither a map, nor a compass, who got lost the same day. As of now, he is still lost, but hopefully he'll make it to VVR tonight.

VVR is really where the fun started though. There were about 30 hikers there enjoying the food, beer, and later on the campfire. The first beer is free. The first night camping is free. Everything else was pretty expensive, understandably, since we are in the middle of nowhere. The waitresses in the small restaurant were very entertaining, particularly Olive, and the pie was amazing. Mmmm.

Colin also got a trail name today! Since he is always checking what time it is or our pace or anticipated arrival time, it was decreed that henceforth he be known as Timex.

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 25, 2011

Start: 850
End: 864

Today is the much anticipated Evolution Creek crossing! At Evolution Meadow there is a sign that recommends taking the alternate trail through the meadow if the creek is running high. I guess since this year has the most snow on record since they started keeping records, it's probably best to cross through the meadow. Although the creek crossing was cold, it wasn't any worse than Bubbs Creek and actually was easier than Bubbs.

After warming our feet up, we hiked on down Evoulution Creek toward the San Joaquin River and then up towards Selden Pass. On our lunch break for the day we ended up seeing quite a lot of people including Tal, Goose, Sunflower, Bottle Rocket, Outlaw, Push, Red Blaze, and Half Fast. It's great to see another group out here that are enjoying the Sierras as much as we are!

After lunch we kept on toward Selden Pass and reached the apex at 5:30pm. It was a pretty easy pass compared to others, it did not require use of an ice axe. We enjoyed the view briefly and then headed down the other side to find a place to camp on real ground, not snow or granite. Luckily it didn't take long and we were able to sit in the sun while we cooked and ate dinner.

Just as we were finishing dinner we had a little surprise when Wiz, Wet Smoke, and Buttercup showed up on our small patch of dry land. It was great to see Wiz on the trail again since I haven't seen him since he went home for his sister's wedding a month ago! We chatted for a bit and then they moved onto find a piece of dry ground to call their own for the night. Hopefully we will run into them again tomorrow or in Mammoth in a few days.

Tomorrow it's on to Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR) for some real food! Should be a great day!

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 24, 2011

Start: 834
End: 850

Another early morning start today. We got up around 5am and were on the trail around 6am, about half an hour after Wired, Top Shelf, Blister, and Pine left camp.

As we approached Muir Pass we met two new people, Bert and Ernie, and hiked with them up to the top of the pass, past a false summit. At the top of the pass is a stone house structure built by the Sierra Club in honor of John Muir; it is an awesome little building.

After spending some time up at the top we started descending down toward Evolution Basin to camp before the Evolution Creek crossing, which is supposedly a challenging ford. It was a great hike down off the snow and onto dirt/rock trail again, which is a treat after slogging through the snow for so long.

It's interesting how a hikers perspective changes over time on the hike. It's kind of a 'grass is always greener' situation. When the trail is hot and dry, you long for a creek to cross, or some cold snow to make a slushee. When the trail is snow covered, or there are water crossings every quarter mile, you really want dry trail under your feet.

That being said, every day out here is amazing whether your feet are soaking wet or you have to carry heaps of water. Either way you deal with what the day gives you and make the best out of the situation, like pink lemonade slushees when you are surrounded by snow.

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 23, 2011

Start: 819
End: 834

Water, water everywhere.

After last night sleeping (kinda) on the snow for the first (and hopefully only time) this trip, we dropped quite a bit of elevation out of the wintry wonderland and walked into spring, just at the peak of the thaw. Water was flowing down sheer granite faces, cascading over waterfalls, and charging down the river channel in full force white water. At one point water even flowed over the river's bank and onto the trail. That wasn't the only place where the trail was flooded however. There were many "seasonal" streams that seemingly came from nowhere and ran down the trail at many locations. At one such place, I was walking along in the foot deep water of the trail and almost stepped on a 6" trout. Welcome to water world.

I don't mean to make it sound like the water is a bad thing though, the waterfalls and bank-full rivers are breathtaking and awe inspiring in their beauty and raw power. And it's great to be able to only carry one liter of water for drinking instead of five.

As we followed the Palisades River down to its confluence with the Middle Fork of the Kings River, we got to the point where the ground was more bare than snow covered and it seemed like we walked into an entirely different place. Everything was green, there is grass on the ground, ferns, other ground cover, and even quaking aspen. There were also a few meadows and some wildflowers including paintbrush.

Where the two rivers came together, we turned North and headed up the Middle Fork of the Kings River. It was some of the most beautiful scenery I've yet seen. It's basically how I would have pictured the Sierras in summer would look. We continued up the river until getting to the point where snow started overtaking the ground again and found a dry place to camp with Blister, Top Shelf, Wired, Pine, and Eggman. We are set up 5 miles from Muir Pass which we will do in the morning and then hike another 10 miles to camp just before the Evolution Creek crossing which is supposed to be one of the most challenging of the entire trail.

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 22, 2011

Start: 805
End: 819

Today was an amazing day! We were camped about 2 miles from Pinchot Pass, and didn't want to get there while it was still icy, so we left camp around 7 planning to get there between 9 & 10. We made it up and over the pass quite easily and started down the other side, attempting to glissade, but the snow was still pretty firm and not ideal for glissading.

While we were at the top of the pass, the idea was thrown out to try to do Mather Pass as well, instead of waiting until tomorrow morning. We decided we'd get to our planned stopping point and then decide what to do. We hiked the rest of the day through the snow enjoying the sun and calm conditions that we have been experiencing for a while. When we were nearing our originally planned stoping point we stopped for lunch on a rock outcropping in the middle of snow, surrounded by mountains.

Just before we were going to head out toward the pass, 12 Ounce suggested we make sure we were going toward the correct pass since others we knew (Chili and Pounder) had a 19 hour stretch where they were lost because they went over the wrong pass. It was an excellent idea to double check, because it turned out that we were heading toward the wrong pass, but were only 1.3 miles from the correct pass. Phew! That could have made for an even longer day.

Once we knew where we were supposed to be going, we took off toward Mather Pass. According to Yogi's guidebook, Mather Pass is one of the more difficult passes, which we soon found out. The first part of the pass we ascended vertically up a fairly steep snow slope. After a couple hundred feet, we walked along some rocks and then traversed across another steep snowy slope a few hundred more feet to another patch of rocks. This time we stowed our ice axes, poles and microspikes so we could climb across some more rocks and rock ledges that were barely wide enough to walk across with a backpack. On one side was a vertical rock wall and the other side an extremely steep snow covered slope. After the rocks, we again got out the snow gear for the final few hundred feet of slightly upward traverse to the pass, where we would have to climb up and over a small cornice. This was easily the most intense section of the trail so far; I loved it. What's life without a little excitement!

Once on top of the pass there were some rocks where we could hang out for a moment. Since it was getting late in the day, we started descending and came across the three best glissades yet! The second one was awesome! It started out straight, went over a little lip where the slope got steeper, and then ended out of sight. It was so cool!

After the glissades, we continued to make our way towards Palisades Lake in hopes of finding dry land for camping. Unfortunately everything is covered in snow so we are snow camping, a first for the trip. The stars are amazing as usual, but I think sleep will soon overtake me. What a great day.

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 21, 2011

Start: 794
End: 805

For those who aren't aware, today is the longest day of the year. For those who hike the PCT, it is also known as hike naked day. A day where hikers can be totally free of polyester garments and just that much closer to nature. Of course not everyone participates, which can make for some interesting encounters.

Since the four of us only planned on hiking 11 miles to Twin Lakes, just 2 miles south of Pinchot Pass, we slept in and purposely got a late start. It was fairly cold in the morning and we got a few miles in before it started warming up. When it did warm up, we participated in the hike naked day festivities by donning our birthday suits, along with gaiters and shoes for protection from the patchy snow we were crossing. 12 Ounce and I had a choice encounter with a French couple, who were hiking south on the John Muir Trail, at a creek crossing. We crossed safely, in our finest attire, and then they asked us which way the trail went on the other side of the creek. It didn't seem awkward, but I think they were a little bit surprised.

We continued hiking naked for another couple hours, without running into any other hikers, until crossing a suspension bridge over Woods Creek and stopping for lunch. At which point we had our clothes back on.

After lunch we did a couple more hours of hiking naked and eventually made it to Twin Lakes for the night. Along the eay we ran into Wired, Top Shelf, Blister, Pine, and Eggman. From our sleeping bags there is an amazing view of the last of the sun's rays turning the highest mountaintops pink, and the sky shades of sherbert. What an amazing day.

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 20, 2011

Start: 790
End: 794

So, we didn't wake up as early as we planned, but still woke up around 5:30am. I made a hot breakfast for the first time on the trail which consisted of oatmeal, dried cherries, walnuts, and powdered milk. Believe it or not, it was much more satisfying than pop-tarts.

After breakfast we headed up toward the first pass of the day, Kearsarge (11,600'), so we could actually make it back to the PCT and start heading North again. It wasn't too bad getting up and over the pass, and we made it to the junction with the PCT around 9:30am. After a short break we headed up toward our second pass of the day, Glen Pass (11,970'). According to Yogi, this is the hardest pass of them all. According to us, it was easier than Forester Pass. I think a lot of the difficulty with crossing passes has to do with the conditions encountered during the crossing. If you time it right and have good weather, it'll probably be just fine.

We made it up to the top of the pass around noon and again enjoyed the views for a couple hours while basking in the warmth of the sun and appreciating the lack of wind. While up there we also made slushees with Country Time pink lemonade. It was a delicious way to end our lunch on the pass.

Descending the other side of the pass was supposed to be more dangerous because we had to traverse down along a fairly long steep slope before getting to flatter ground. Because there were already footsteps in the snow and the soft consistency of the snow, we had no problems traversing and made quick work of the upper section. Once we were down below the steep section we got in a couple of glissades on our way to Rae Lakes for the night.

Being at camp early is fantastic and we enjoyed soaking up some more rays before making dinner and getting ready for bed. Tonight's dinner was spinach and cheese tortellini with white wine sausage, Alfredo sauce, parmesan cheese, sundries tomatoes and slivered almonds. Perhaps you can understand why I look forward to dinner each day!

Tomorrow we have an easy day with no passes which I am looking forward to! Living the dream!

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone

June 19, 2011

Nero/Zero. We didn't actually do any miles on the PCT, but did do a couple miles toward Kearsarge Pass.

This morning was pretty much the same as the morning before. We slept in and then ate another large breakfast.

After breakfast we packed up all of our things, including the heaps of food we bought for the next 9 days to Mammoth. I didn't have a scale, but I'm sure this is the heaviest my pack has been to date, probably just over 50 lbs.

Once packed, we walked around Bishop a little, including a stop by Mountain Light Gallery which had some of the most amazing photos I've ever seen; very inspiring stuff. Most of it was taken by Galen Rowell. My favorite photo was one his son had taken at Yosemite Falls at night. There was a lunar rainbow at the base of the falls where the mist was spraying, and then a clear sky with stars up above. Truly a breathtaking scene. There were many other great photos as well, and we commented on how the photos really captured what we have been seeing out in the Sierra but have been unable to capture ourselves with compact digital cameras.

After our stop there we split into groups of two and attempted to hitch back to Independence. It took a little while, but 12 Ounce and I got a ride from a guy named Matt who had recently been divorced and moved to Bishop so he could get away and rock climb more. He had also been to a Buddhist retreat in LA earlier this weekend. It's always interesting getting hitches. Unfortunately he could only take us to Big Pine, which left us 25 miles from Bishop still. So we stuck out our thumbs again and after about 15 minutes got another hitch, this time with a Hispanic father and son, Pedro and Marco. They happened to be hauling scrap metal from Nevada to LA in their semi truck. Yes, that's right, semi. We got to sit on the bed in the back of the cab while driving down the road in a semi. Definitely something I never thought I would do, but so glad for the experience.

After getting dropped of in Independence, we tried to contact a trail angel, Uberbitch, to give us a ride back up to the trail, but her phone was off so we left a message and then tried to hitch. This was definitely the most difficult section to hitch because traffic is very limited going 15 miles from Bishop to the Onion Valley TH. We tried to hitch for a while, but then got hungry so we got some food at Subway, and then got back out on the road to try our luck again.

As we were eating our sandwiches, a man named Kurt pulled up in a pickup truck with trash cans in the back and two dogs. He offered to drive us to the trailhead for $20, but had to go get his other truck first. We happily agreed to pay him for a ride and waited until he came back with the other truck. Little did we know, he did bring back another truck, but still had two dogs with him in the canopy in the back. They weren't small dogs either, they were wolf dogs. We loaded the packs in the back, then the dogs, and then Colin, while Gangsta Rap, 12 Ounce, and I squeezed into the cab with Kurt. It was quite cozy in there.

When we made it to the trailhead we did some last minute preparations and then headed up the hill a couple miles to Heart Lake where we set up camp for the night. We enjoyed the warmth of the sun, then made some dinner, and got in our sleeping bags.

It's great to be back up in the mountains, and I look forward to the string of passes we will be crossing in the next 9 days!

Misspellings brought to you by iPhone